A washing machine full of water that won’t drain is a common failure, and most of the time you can clear it yourself in about 15 minutes. Before you call a repair tech or shop for a new machine, this guide walks you through it.
The fix depends on your machine. A front loader drains through a small pump filter behind a panel near the floor. A top loader lets you siphon the water out the back drain hose using gravity.
We cover both methods below, plus how to empty a washer for a move and how to keep the clog from coming back.
Key Takeaways
- Unplug first: Cut power at the plug or breaker and shut off the water supply before you open any panel or hose.
- Front loaders: Open the pump filter panel at the bottom front, then drain through the emergency tube or unscrew the filter cap slowly into a shallow tray.
- Top loaders: Pull the gray drain hose off the standpipe and lower it into a bucket so gravity siphons the water out.
- Prevent a repeat: Clean the drain pump filter every one to three months to clear the coins, lint, and debris that jam it.
How to Drain a Washing Machine
Draining a washer manually is a handy skill, whether the pump failed or you need to move the unit. The process differs slightly depending on if the door is on the front or the top.
Safety Note: Electricity and water are a dangerous mix. Always unplug your machine before removing panels or hoses. We also suggest checking your specific user manual, as brands like Samsung, Whirlpool, and GE have unique quirks.
- Time: 15 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
Draining a Front Loading Washer
Front-load washers rely on a drain pump usually located behind a small door near the floor. Because this is the lowest point of the machine, gravity works against you here. Opening the filter directly will flood your floor.
Ideally, use a wet/dry vacuum to suck the water out. If you don’t have one, use the method below with shallow trays.
What You’ll Need:
- Old towels (and plenty of them)
- Tarp (optional)
- Shallow baking sheet or paint tray
- Bucket
- Laundry detergent
- Warm soapy water
- Soft-bristled brush
1. Prep the Area
Unplug the power cord. If the machine is full of hot water from a recent cycle, wait 30 minutes for it to cool down to avoid burns.
Spread a tarp or several thick towels in front of the machine. The goal is to catch the inevitable splash zone.
2. Locate the Drain Panel
Look for a small access door at the bottom of the machine (usually the right or left corner). On GE appliances and Samsung washers, this is standard.
Open the panel. If it doesn’t pop open with a finger press, you might need a flathead screwdriver or a coin to twist the latch.
3. Drain the Water
Once the panel is open, look for a small rubber hose next to the main filter cap. This is the emergency drain tube.
- Pull the small black tube out of its clip.
- Place the end of the tube into your shallow tray or bowl.
- Remove the plug from the end of the tube. Water will start flowing immediately.
- When your tray is full, plug the tube, dump the water into a larger bucket, and repeat.
If your machine does not have this small tube, you must drain directly from the filter. Place a tray under the filter cap. Unscrew the cap slowly (counter-clockwise) until a trickle starts. Do not remove the cap entirely yet. Fill the tray, tighten the cap, dump the water, and repeat.
4. Clean the Pump Filter
Once the water stops flowing, you can fully unscrew and remove the pump filter. This is where you will find the culprits: coins, hair clips, or a buildup of lint.
Check inside the housing for any debris and clear it out. Rinse the filter in a sink with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Screw it back in tightly to prevent future leaks.
Make this routine, not a one-off. The pump filter (the coin trap) is there to catch coins, keys, buttons, and lint before they reach the pump. LG advises cleaning the drain pump filter about once a month (1). Every one to three months is enough to head off the next clog.
Top Tip
Draining a Top-Loading Washer
Top loaders are generally easier to drain because you can use gravity to your advantage via the main drain hose on the back. If you can open the lid and reach the water, start by scooping as much as you can into a bucket with a cup or a small container. That alone empties much of the tub before you touch the hose.
Safety Note: Tape the power cord to the top of the machine so it doesn’t fall into any water puddles on the floor.
What You’ll Need:
- Large bucket (5-gallon size is best)
- Towels
- Plumber’s snake
- Pliers (optional)
1. Access the Back
Carefully slide the washing machine away from the wall. You need enough room to work behind it. Locate the drain hose; it is usually a corrugated gray tube, distinct from the red and blue water supply lines.
2. Disconnect the Drain Hose
Locate where the gray drain hose enters your home’s drain pipe (standpipe) or laundry tub. Pull the hose out of the pipe.
Important: Keep the end of the hose raised higher than the water level in the washer, or water will immediately shoot out.
3. Use Gravity to Drain
Lower the end of the drain hose into your bucket. As long as the hose end is lower than the water in the drum, gravity will siphon the water out.
If the flow stops but water remains, raise the hose to clear the air lock, then lower it again. Fill the bucket, raise the hose to stop the flow, dump the bucket, and repeat until the drum is empty.
4. Check for Blockages
If water barely trickles out, the hose or the pump is clogged.
- Check the hose: Squeeze along the length of the hose to feel for blockages. You can use a plumber’s snake to clear it.
- Check the pump: On some top loaders, you must lay the machine on its front (with padding) to access the pump underneath. Remove the clamps with pliers and check the pump interior for socks or debris.
Why is My Washing Machine Not Draining?
A washer usually fails to drain because of a clogged pump filter, a kinked or too-high drain hose, a broken lid switch, or a failed pump. Here are the usual suspects:
- Clogged Drain Filter: This is the number one cause. Small items like coins, socks, or keys lodge in the filter and jam the pump impeller.
- Kinked Hose: If the machine was pushed back too hard against the wall, the drain hose might be pinched, stopping water flow.
- Broken Lid Switch: Top loaders have a safety switch. If the machine thinks the lid is open, it will not spin or drain.
- Pump Failure: If the pump hums but doesn’t move water (and there is no clog), the motor might be burned out.
- Drain Height: A laundry standpipe should sit 18 to 42 inches above the trap (2). Run the hose higher than that and the pump cannot lift the water out, so it drains slowly or backs up.
Troubleshooting Hacks
Before calling a pro, try these quick fixes:
- Reset the Master: Unplug the machine for 1 minute to reset the computer controls.
- Straighten the Hose: Pull the machine out and ensure the gray hose has a clear path with no bends.
- Test the Lid Switch: Press the lid switch manually with a pen. If the machine engages, the plastic tab on your lid might be broken.
How to Drain a Washing Machine For Moving
Moving? You cannot transport a washer with water inside. It adds massive weight and can leak in the moving truck, ruining your furniture. An ENERGY STAR certified full-sized washer uses about 14 gallons per load, versus 20 gallons for a standard machine (3). You also need to prevent mold growth during storage.
- Time: 1-2 hours
- Difficulty: Intermediate
What You’ll Need:
- Distilled white vinegar
- Microfiber cloth
- Bucket
- Slip-joint pliers
1. Clean and Purge
Run a “Clean Cycle” or a hot wash with a cup of vinegar to kill bacteria. This prevents that musty “storage smell.” Leave the door open to air dry completely.
2. Shut Off Utilities
Turn off the hot and cold water valves on the wall. Disconnect the water supply hoses from the back of the machine. Have a towel ready, as these hoses will hold a little water.
3. Drain Every Drop
Follow the draining steps listed above for your machine type.
- Top Loaders: Tilt the machine backward and then forward to help dislodge water trapped in the pump housing.
- Front Loaders: Open the drain filter again. Tilt the machine forward slightly (about 6 inches) to ensure the very last cup of water flows out.
4. Secure the Drum (Crucial!)
For front loaders, you must reinstall the “shipping bolts” into the back of the machine. These lock the drum in place. If you move the washer without them, the suspension can break, destroying the machine.
Tips to Minimize the Mess
Draining a washer is inherently wet work. Keep these tips in mind to save your floors:
- Use a Shop Vac: If you own a wet/dry vacuum, it is the cleanest method. You can suction water directly from the drain hose or filter opening.
- Baking Sheets are Key: For front loaders low to the ground, a rimmed baking sheet fits better than a bucket.
- Control the Flow: Never pull the drain filter completely out while the drum is full. Open it slowly to control the speed of the water.
Warning
FAQs
Get Your Laundry Routine Back on Track
Manually draining a washer is messy work, but it beats waiting days for a service call, and most of the time clearing the water and cleaning the filter fixes the machine on the spot. If the pump hums with no clog, or water pools under the drum, that is when a technician earns the call.
Then keep it from happening again. Check pockets for coins and receipts before every load, and rinse the pump filter every couple of months. A few minutes of upkeep saves a lot of wet floors.
