When something goes wrong with your GE washer, it may display an error code. Don’t panic — this doesn’t mean you need to fork out hundreds to buy a machine. There are some simple ways to resolve the issue.
We’ll walk you through various GE washer error codes, what they mean and how you can attempt to fix the problem.
Keep reading for our top troubleshooting tips.
- GE washer error codes help identify issues with the machine, such as filling problems, motor issues, and sensor errors.
- Fixing issues may involve checking water supply, clearing clogs, or inspecting wiring and components for damage.
- To clear error codes, press and hold the power button, unplug the machine, and run a wash cycle to ensure it works properly.
- GE washing machines typically last between eight and 14 years, depending on usage and maintenance.
How Do I Find the Error Code on My GE Washer?
- Unplug the machine: Unplug the machine from the electrical outlet for one minute.
- Resume power: Plug the machine back in and open and close the lid six times within 12 seconds. Note that the lid must be opened at least two inches for this step to work. Close the lid all the way each time. This works for most GE washers, including Deep Fill models.
- Press a combination of buttons: The machine is now set so you can bring up the error code. Press “signal” then “delay start”, then “signal” then “delay start” quickly. The error code will now appear.
Front Load GE Washer Codes
Let’s walk through the list of GE washer fault codes, what they each mean and how you can fix them. Most of these can be resolved quickly at home without needing to call a professional.
We’ll start with front load GE washers (such as the Profile model) before going to top load GE washing machine error codes.
While we’re discussing front and top load machines, you may have different error codes if you have a stackable washer and dryer. Refer to your user manual for help.
What It Means: The washing machine is not filling or is filling too slowly (exceeding eight minutes).
How to Fix It: Ensure the water supply is on. Then ensure that the water valves are connected to the inlet hoses and are open. Try turning the water off and on again. If this doesn’t work, check that the water line isn’t frozen. Lastly, inspect the hose for kinks or clogs. You should try to replace the hose every five years.
What It Means: The flood protection drain is activated. The washer has detected an overflow.
How to Fix It: Try resetting the machine or retrying the washing cycle before moving on to the next steps. If that doesn’t work, check the water valves or water level. Faults or a poor water level can cause this code. If the water valve is at fault, you’ll see water getting into the machine even when it’s off. But if that’s not the cause, you can perform the water level control test via the machine’s service mode.
Code E38 or E39
What It Means: The detergent dispenser is malfunctioning.
How to Fix It: Unplug the appliance and check the mechanical link on the dispenser drawer. Repair or replace any damaged parts. Another problem may be that the dispenser can’t get into the correct position, or the opening and closing parts aren’t working. Repair or replace damaged parts.
You may also get a “Tank Low” error code. This appears on SmartDispense machines. It alerts you that the tank needs re-filled or when there are 8-10 loads of detergent remaining.
Code E42, E45 or E49
What It Means: Motor related. The motor or inverter isn’t working correctly, is overloaded, or drawing too much current.
How to Fix It: Remove some items from the drum and restart the washing cycle. A heavy load can put strain on the motor. Another solution is to rotate the drum manually. If there are crunching or grinding noises, there might be something stuck between the drum and the outer tub, which you will need to remove.
If the above solution doesn’t work, you may need to test the wiring. If it’s faulty, the wiring will need to be replaced, and possibly the drive motor and inverter control board, too. In this situation, we recommend contacting GE for support.
Code E46, E47 or E48
What It Means: The drive motor is overheating.
How to Fix It: Start by clearing the code, exiting service mode, and unplugging the washing machine for 30 seconds. If the code remains, inspect the wiring to the drive motor while the machine is turned off. You want to look for loose wiring or damaged wiring. Repair or replace any that you notice. However, if the wiring looks okay, you will need to replace the drive motor and possibly, the inverter control board, too.
Replace the drive motor before the inverter control board. Check how the machine works with just that replacement. If it still isn’t working, then replace the inverter control board, too. If you do need to replace either of these parts, we recommend contacting a GE repair person or a professional appliance repair provider instead of doing it yourself.
Code E57, E58 or E71
What It Means: The main control board is faulty. If this occurs, your machine will not work correctly.
How to Fix It: Unplug the appliance and check the wiring to the control board. Look for loose or damaged wires. Repair or replace them if you are able. Power the machine back up. If the problem continues, you will need to replace the entire control board.
Try This First
This is a significant and expensive error, so take note of this hack. This error can also appear if a key is stuck on the control panel. So ensure that isn’t the case first before replacing the whole board.
Code E60, E61, E63 or E64
What It Means: The door lock assembly is faulty.
How to Fix It: Turn the machine off, unplug it, wait 30 seconds, turn it back on and retry. If that doesn’t work, check the connections between the control and door latch. If they’re faulty, replace the door latch. You can also use rubbing alcohol to clean them. If they are filthy it can mess with the effectiveness of the connection.
What It Means: There is a water level control or sensor error.
How to Fix It: Unplug the machine and inspect the wiring between the control board and the water level sensor. If you notice any loose or damaged wiring, replace them. If you don’t notice this, you will need to replace the sensor.
What It Means: There is a keypad error. There is possibly dirt, or debris stuck between the keypad and the front housing. Otherwise, there may also be a stuck key.
How to Fix It: Remove the control case and clean it. If this doesn’t fix the problem, you may need to replace the control panel.
Top Load GE Washer Codes
These are the most common error codes associated with top load GE washing machines.
1 Flash or 5 Flashes
What It Means: Drive motor failure.
How to Fix It: You must replace the drive motor. Unplug the machine before replacing the drive motor.
What It Means: Slipping or loose drive belt or hub nut.
How to Fix It: Unplug the machine and inspect the drive belt. If it’s not damaged, tighten the hub nut which is located next to the spin basket. If the drive belt is in a poor condition, replace it. If neither of these tricks work, you might need to replace the drive motor.
What It Means: Defective inverter control.
How to Fix It: GE doesn’t sell the inverter control separately, so you will need to outsource this. The other option is to replace the drive motor since that’s what contains the inverter control.
What It Means: Mode shifter circuit failure.
How to Fix It: The mode shifter is in the drive shaft assembly, so you will need to reconnect the wire between the mode shifter and the inverter controller if it has come loose or disconnected. However, if this doesn’t work, you will need to replace the drive shaft assembly.
What It Means: The drive motor rotor is locked, and the washer tub can’t spin.
How to Fix It: Find the issue causing the tub not to spin. This could be power loss, the door is open, the door switch is faulty, the drive belt is faulty, the motor coupler is worn, the clutch is faulty, or the drive motor is faulty. You will have to go through the process of elimination to find the fault. If the drive motor is the problem, you will need to replace it.
What It Means: You haven’t opened the lid for four consecutive wash cycles. When you don’t open the lid after four cycles, the machine assumes that the lid switch is defective.
How to Fix It: You will need to replace the wire that connects the lid switch. If the lid switch is actually damaged, you will need a new switch.
What It Means: Drive motor temperature warning. This occurs when the washer is overloaded and can’t spin properly, which can cause the drive motor to overheat.
How to Fix It: Remove some items from the load, so it isn’t too heavy. Try spinning the washtub manually. If it can’t move, contact GE for support. The machine may end up requiring a new drive motor.
What It Means: Defective drive motor brake. The brake is what stops your appliance from spinning.
How to Fix It: You will need a new drive motor.
What It Means: The “dry load sense” has timed out and moved onto the next part of the cycle. The washing machine isn’t reaching the programmed spin speed within time.
How to Fix It: Check that the machine isn’t overloaded. Remove some items if necessary. If that doesn’t work, check that the machine is draining properly and that there are no clogs in the drainage system. Remove the clogs, drain the machine and try again. Next, unplug the machine and check that there aren’t broken or loose belts at the back panel. If so, tighten or replace them.
What It Means: The drain pump clearing algorithm failed.
How to Fix It: First, check the drain pump for a clog. If there is one, remove it. If that doesn’t work, check the installation instructions to ensure that the appliance is at the proper standpipe height. Next, check the pressure tube for pinches near the top cover grommet. Another tip is to check the output voltage from the pressure sensor and that it matches the water level in the basket. You may need an electrician to help here. You should also check the pump’s resistance from the J512 connector on the control. If you have an open circuit, check the wiring harness to the pump and pump motor. Lastly, check for 120 VAC to the drain pump. If there is voltage and the pump isn’t working, you will need to replace the pump. However, if there is no voltage, you will need to replace the interface machine control.
When it comes to GE washing machine troubleshooting, code 18 is a bit of a tricky one to navigate, so if you’re in doubt, contact GE for specific support.
What It Means: There is a pressure sensor dropout from either a disconnected pressure house, a pinched pressure hose, water in the pressure hose, or a pressure sensor fault.
How to Fix It: Check the pressure tube for pinches near the top cover grommet. Then check the tube for trapped water. Look for leaking water valves. Then check your home’s water pressure to make sure it’s adequate. Lastly, check that the output voltage from the sensor matches the water level in the basket.
How to Clear GE Washer Error Codes
Once you’ve located and verified the error, you can clear the code.
- Press power: Press and hold the power button until the error code disappears.
- Unplug: Unplug the machine from the outlet for at least three minutes.
- Plug: Plug the appliance back in and turn it on.
- Wash: Run a wash cycle to ensure that the appliance works ok.
- If the code returns: If the code comes back or you have more issues, you will need to begin the troubleshooting process again.
What is the Average Lifespan of a GE Washing Machine?
GE washing machines tend to last between eight and 14 years. This depends on how often you use it, how well you maintain it and which model you go for.
Reset the Errors
It’s actually beneficial when your GE washing machine flashes error codes at you. The various codes alert you to the specific problem. From there, you can start the troubleshooting process and fix the problem.
Our list of common GE washing machine error codes and troubleshooting tips will help you through various issues.
When in doubt — such as when you receive an H20 error code — contact GE’s customer service for support. They may even send somebody out to fix your appliance.